The making of ..... Jewellery

This week I thought I would give you a little behind the scenes look at what goes into making a bespoke piece of jewellery.....

old cut diamond remodel

Here's what happened with this ring..... A customer came in with his own family diamond (an old cut). He wanted it set into a bi-colour mount to make an engagement ring for his soon-to-be fiance. We discussed different designs & showed him lots of rings from our window, along with photos of previous commissions in our shop books. Between the actual rings & photos we clarified the finer details & went to work!

Firstly, using gold wire, our goldsmith made 2 rings. These were then bound together to keep them in place while they were soldered (this is the 1st pic in the sequence).

Our goldsmith then made a platnium 'collet' (the part which holds the diamond). At this stage the claws are intentionally left very long to allow plenty of metal to set the diamond with. The collet was then soldered to the double gold 'shank' (the band which goes around the finger).

Next came the shoulder detail. Using platinum wire these features were hand-crafted & offered up to the ring. To allow the ring to sit flush with a wedding ring we did not want them protruding from the side. To solve this problem grooves were cut into the sides of the gold ring & the platinum was actually recessed flush into the gold (the 4th pic in the sequence). This way the 2 colour detail is still prominent but the ring is nice & flat on the side avoiding unsightly gaps when worn with a wedding ring.

Next the diamond was set. The claws are bent over the stone & act like clamps that hold the diamond in. The excess metal is then cut back & neatened (the 6th photo in the sequence).

Lastly the ring has it's final polish!

Categories
Bespoke Jewellery Engagement Rings Jewellery